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A method to evaluate skin moisturizers in vivo.
The Journal of Investigative Dermatology
|March 1, 1978
Summary
This study introduces a new objective method for evaluating moisturizers. The technique measures skin surface moisture to determine how effectively products hydrate and enhance skin hydration.
Area of Science:
- Dermatology
- Cosmetic Science
- Biophysics
Background:
- Water is the sole plasticizer for human stratum corneum.
- Traditional moisturizer evaluation is subjective or uses in vitro methods.
- Existing techniques measure transepidermal water loss (TEWL) but not surface moisture enhancement.
Purpose of the Study:
- To develop an objective method for assessing moisturizer efficacy.
- To evaluate the ability of moisturizers to increase and retain skin surface hydration.
- To differentiate between occlusive effects and true moisturization.
Main Methods:
- Utilizing a stream of dry nitrogen passed over skin and detected by an electrolytic moisture analyzer.
- Measuring skin surface moisture levels after moisturizer application.
- Comparing moisture detection on skin versus inert plastic film.
Main Results:
- The technique detects higher surface moisture on skin compared to controls for hours after application.
- Water is not detectable on plastic film after a few minutes.
- The method successfully demonstrated enhanced moisturization from occlusion and wet dressings.
- The drying effect of benzoyl peroxide gels was also observed.
Conclusions:
- This method provides an objective way to rank moisturizers based on moisture enhancement, not just occlusion.
- It allows for quantitative assessment of skin hydration provided by topical products.
- The technique offers a reliable alternative to subjective and in vitro evaluations.