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Related Experiment Videos

Stratum corneum dynamic function measurements after moisturizer or irritant application

P Treffel1, B Gabard

  • 1Department of Biopharmacy, Spirig AG, Egerkingen, Switzerland.

Archives of Dermatological Research
|January 1, 1995
PubMed
Summary

Simple in vivo tests quantified stratum corneum (SC) dynamic functions after moisturizer and sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS) treatments. These methods revealed urea

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Area of Science:

  • Dermatology and Biophysics
  • Skin Physiology
  • Cosmetic Science

Background:

  • The stratum corneum (SC) is crucial for skin barrier function.
  • Understanding SC dynamic functions in vivo is essential for evaluating skincare products and irritants.
  • Current methods may not fully capture rapid changes in SC hydration and water dynamics.

Purpose of the Study:

  • To develop and validate simple in vivo tests for quantifying SC dynamic functions.
  • To assess the effects of moisturizers (containing urea) and sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS) on SC dynamic parameters.
  • To investigate the mechanisms of action of urea and SLS on the SC.

Main Methods:

  • Two simple tests, the sorption-desorption test (SDT) and moisture accumulation test (MAT), were employed.

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  • Measurements were taken using a Nova Dermal Phase Meter 9003.
  • Parameters quantified included prehydration state, hygroscopicity, water-holding capacity, water accumulation velocity, and water accumulation.

    • Main Results:

    • The tests successfully demonstrated the water-holding effect of urea in moisturizers.
    • Short-term (15 min) and long-term (24 h) SLS exposure induced distinct changes in SC dynamic functions, while hydration state remained largely unchanged.
    • Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) was affected only after prolonged SLS exposure, but MAT detected functional changes earlier.

    Conclusions:

    • The SDT and MAT are practical methods for demonstrating functional SC modifications.
    • These tests provide insights into the mechanisms of urea and SLS on SC dynamics.
    • Dynamic SC parameters can be altered even when overall hydration levels appear stable.