Fluorescence spectroscopy: a rapid, noninvasive method for measurement of skin surface thickness of topical agents

We report the quantification of skin surface thickness of topical agents by in vivo fluorescence spectroscopy, and demonstrate its potential uses for assessment of application technique and substantivity. A series of studies were performed on forearm skin of eight normal subjects using three creams which have intrinsic fluorescence: a sunscreen (Neutrogena SPF15 waterproof cream), an antiseptic (Hewlett's cream) and a steroid (Trimovate (clobetasone butyrate) cream). Initially, the dose-response relationship was established for each agent by applying a series of five doses (0.5-8 microliters/cm2) and measuring cream fluorescence using appropriate excitation and emission wavelengths. Next, the influence of application technique was examined by comparing light application of cream with firm rubbing. Substantivity of the three creams was assessed on dry skin by taking fluorescence measurements over 8 h. Finally, water resistance of 2 microliters/cm2 of sunscreen and antiseptic cream were compared by measuring fluorescence after each of four water immersions. The fluorescence intensity was strongly correlated with the logarithm of surface density. r = 1.0, 0.92 and 0.98 for sunscreen, antiseptic and steroid creams, respectively, allowing derivation of a simple expression for equivalent thickness. Surface thickness of each cream was lower following firm rubbing compared with light application (P < 0.01). The rate constants for reduction of surface density of the three creams with time on dry skin were not significantly different. However, on washed skin, the rate constant was higher for Hewlett's than Neutrogena cream (0.503 and 0.243 h. respectively, P = 0.02), with a higher rate for each cream on wet compared with dry skin (P < 0.001). Hence, fluorescence spectroscopy is a simple, rapid method for measurement of cream thickness in vivo. The many potential applications in dermatology include quantitative assessment of application technique and substantivity of topical agents.