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Related Experiment Videos

Alpha hydroxyacids modulate stratum corneum barrier function

E Berardesca1, F Distante, G P Vignoli

  • 1Department of Dermatology, University of Pavia, IRCCS Policlinico S. Matteo, Italy.

The British Journal of Dermatology
|February 21, 1998
PubMed
Summary
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Alpha hydroxyacids (AHAs) can improve skin barrier function and prevent irritation. Gluconolactone and tartaric acid showed the most significant benefits in preventing skin irritation and reducing water loss.

Area of Science:

  • Dermatology
  • Cosmetic Science
  • Skin Barrier Research

Background:

  • Alpha hydroxyacids (AHAs) are widely utilized for their exfoliating properties, enhancing stratum corneum desquamation and improving overall skin appearance.
  • The potential of AHAs to positively impact skin barrier function and mitigate skin irritation remains an area of active investigation.

Purpose of the Study:

  • To investigate the efficacy of specific alpha hydroxyacids (AHAs) in enhancing skin barrier function.
  • To determine if certain AHAs can effectively prevent skin irritation induced by a sodium lauryl sulphate challenge.

Main Methods:

  • Eleven healthy subjects participated in a 4-week study involving the topical application of four different AHAs (glycolic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, gluconolactone) at 8% concentration, a vehicle control, and an untreated site.

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  • Skin barrier function and irritation were assessed weekly using evaporimetry for transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and chromametry for erythema (a* value).
  • A sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS) patch test was conducted at week 4 to evaluate the protective effects of the pre-treated sites against induced irritation, with measurements taken at 0, 24, and 48 hours post-removal.

    • Main Results:

    • No significant differences in TEWL or erythema were observed among the four AHAs prior to the SLS challenge.
    • Following the SLS challenge, sites treated with gluconolactone (GLU) and tartaric acid (TA) exhibited significantly lower TEWL compared to vehicle, untreated sites, and glycolic acid-treated sites at both 24 and 48 hours.
    • A* values, indicating erythema, were also significantly reduced post-irritation on GLU- and TA-treated sites, suggesting improved resilience.

    Conclusions:

    • Alpha hydroxyacids (AHAs) possess the ability to modulate the stratum corneum barrier function and offer protection against skin irritation.
    • The protective effects against skin irritation are not uniform across all AHAs; gluconolactone and tartaric acid demonstrated superior efficacy.
    • The enhanced protective properties of gluconolactone and tartaric acid may be linked to their inherent antioxidant characteristics.