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Tidal Forces01:06

Tidal Forces

The origin of Earth's ocean tides has been a subject of continuous investigation for over 2000 years. However, the work of Newton is considered to be the beginning of the proper understanding of the phenomenon. Ocean tides are the result of gravitational tidal forces. These same tidal forces are present in any astronomical body; they are responsible for the internal heat that creates the volcanic activity on Io, one of Jupiter's moons, and the breakup of stars that get too close to black holes.
Travelling Waves01:04

Travelling Waves

A wave is a disturbance that propagates from its source, repeating itself periodically, and is typically associated with simple harmonic motion. Mechanical waves are governed by Newton's laws and require a medium to travel. A medium is a substance in which a mechanical wave propagates, and the medium produces an elastic restoring force when it is deformed.
Water waves, sound waves, and seismic waves are some examples of mechanical waves. For water waves, the wave propagation medium is water;...
Wave Parameters01:10

Wave Parameters

The simplest mechanical waves are associated with simple harmonic motion and repeat themselves for several cycles. These simple harmonic waves can be modeled using a combination of sine and cosine functions. Consider a simplified surface water wave that moves across the water's surface. Unlike complex ocean waves, in surface water waves, water moves vertically, oscillating up and down, whereas the disturbance of the wave moves horizontally through the medium. If a seagull is floating on the...
Geoid and Ellipsoid01:28

Geoid and Ellipsoid

The Earth's shape is best described as an ellipsoid, a slightly flattened sphere created by rotating an ellipse around its minor axis. This flattening results in the polar axis being about 21 kilometers shorter than the equatorial axis. In contrast, the geoid represents the Earth's gravitational shape and aligns with the mean sea level (MSL). The geoid is an irregular equipotential surface where gravity is perpendicular at every point. Variations in Earth's mass distribution cause geoid...
What is an Ecosystem?01:17

What is an Ecosystem?

Overview
Partial Differential Equations01:21

Partial Differential Equations

A stone dropped into a still pond generates waves that propagate outward in circular patterns, creating a dynamic surface whose elevation depends on both position and time. At any given location, the water level oscillates as the wave passes, while at any fixed moment, the surface exhibits smooth, curved structures extending across space. This dual dependence requires a mathematical description that accounts for variation in multiple variables simultaneously.At a fixed point on the water...

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関連する実験動画

Updated: Jul 12, 2026

Visualizing Oceanographic Data to Depict Long-term Changes in Phytoplankton
08:15

Visualizing Oceanographic Data to Depict Long-term Changes in Phytoplankton

Published on: July 28, 2023

地球の潮と海洋の潮です.

D L Anderson

    Science (New York, N.Y.)
    |June 8, 1979
    PubMed
    まとめ

    No abstract available in PubMed .

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