探讨前臂肌肉协调和训练应用在岩者最大同位指死挂期间的各种抓地位置在岩石登者最大同位指死挂
Blai Ferrer-Uris1, Denisse Arias1, Priscila Torrado1
1Institut Nacional d'Educació Física de Catalunya (INEFC), Universitat de Barcelona (UB), Barcelona, Spain.
PeerJ
|June 12, 2023
概括
在岩登山中,SLOPER握把最好地刺激前臂肌肉,例如在最大的死悬崖时, flexor digitorum superficialis (FDS) 和 flexor carpi radialis (FCR). 这种抓地力需要更大的负载,但为登山者提供了优越的肌肉招募.
科学领域:
- 运动科学 运动科学 运动科学
- 生物力学 生物力学
- 运动生理学 运动生理学
背景情况:
- 在岩石登中,最大限度的同位指垂死是提高手指曲器强度的关键.
- 不同的握力位置对前臂肌肉活动在死挂期间的影响仍然在很大程度上未被探索.
- 了解肌肉招募模式可以优化训练策略,以适应不同的登抓地.
研究的目的:
- 研究岩中不同抓地位的训练应用.
- 为了比较前臂肌肉活动在最大死挂在CRIMP,SLOPE和SLOPER掌握.
主要方法:
- 25名登山者使用CRIMP,SLOPE和SLOPER的抓地姿势进行了最大的悬挂.
- 表面电肌扫描 (sEMG) 记录了柔指纹深部 (FDP),柔指纹表面 (FDS),柔指纹半径 (FCR) 和伸展指纹共用 (EDC) 的活动.
- 分析了最大负载,平方根平均值 (RMS) 和神经肌肉效率 (NME) 的抓地特异性差异.
主要成果:
- 与CRIMP和SLOPE相比,SLOPER握力产生了最高的最大负载和显著更大的全球,FDS和FCR肌肉活动.
- SLOPER握力显示出较低的延伸指体共同体 (EDC) 活动,但更高的整体,FDP,FDS和EDC神经肌肉效率 (NME).
- 与SLOPE抓相比,CRIMP抓显示出更大的FDS活动和更低的NME.
结论:
- 在最大强度下,SLOPER握力有效地刺激FDS和FCR肌肉,尽管需要更大的负载.
- 与SLOPE握力相比,CRIMP握力提供了优越的FDS刺激,即使在类似的负载水平下也是如此.
- 这些发现为优化前臂肌肉训练提供了洞察力,通过在岩中选择特定的抓地力.
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