指强度测试在6种常见的握力技术中的有效性和可靠性,用于评估男性登能力
Karl Söderqvist1, Fredrik Identeg1, Jonas Zimmerman1
1Department of Orthopaedics, Institute of Clinical Sciences, Sahlgrenska Academy, University of Gothenburg, Gothenburg, Sweden.
International journal of sports physiology and performance
|February 2, 2024
概括
同度指强度测试,特别是半抓,是评估男性登山者的岩能力的有效和可靠方法. 这种评估可以预测登性能.
科学领域:
- 体育科学 运动科学 运动科学
- 生物力学 生物力学
- 登性能分析 登性能分析
背景情况:
- 登表现受到手指强度的影响.
- 需要客观的评估方法来评估登者手指的强度.
- 差异化的抓技术可能会产生不同的洞察力到登特定的力量.
研究的目的:
- 为了评估标准的有效性和测试复试可靠性等比指强度测试.
- 评估6种不同的握力技术,以评估其预测岩性能的能力.
- 建立一个可靠的框架来评估男性岩石手的力量.
主要方法:
- 用力板测量了6种抓柄类型 (前3拖,半,闭,35斜,45×90毫米,90×90毫米) 的异度指强度.
- 参与者是男性登山者,国际岩石登和研究协会 (IRCRA) 的最低水平为17.
- 使用逐步多变量回归来分析标准的有效性和预测岩性能的预测能力.
主要成果:
- 半抓地表现出预测巨石级别性能的能力最高,解释了48%至58%的差异.
- 半和前3个拖的最大强度总计解释了性能差异的66%.
- 由于样本规模不足,女性被排除在外;分析了32名男性参与者.
结论:
- 同度半强度是滚石性能最重要的指标.
- 该研究提供了一种有效和可靠的方法来评估高级和精英男性岩石手的手指强度.
- 这个框架可以帮助有针对性的培训和绩效评估.
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