不同的加载程序对岩者手指强度的影响
Natalie K Gilmore1, Peter Klimek2, Emil Abrahamsson3
1Department of Neurobiology, Physiology and Behavior, University of California Davis, Davis, CA, 95616, USA.
Sports medicine - open
|November 19, 2024
概括
低强度吊板训练 (Abrahangs) 与最大负载训练同样有效,可以提高爬行者的抓地力. 结合这两种方法可以增加强度,提供一种温和但有效的训练方法.
科学领域:
- 运动科学 运动科学 运动科学
- 生物力学 生物力学
- 运动生理学 运动生理学
背景情况:
- 登对手指和手部结构施加了相当大的负荷.
- 悬挂板训练是提高登山者的手指力量的一种常见方法.
研究的目的:
- 为了比较低强度挂板协议 (Abrahangs) 与最大负载协议 (Max Hangs) 的有效性,以提高抓地力.
- 评估两项协议的综合效应.
主要方法:
- 使用Crimpd应用程序对抓地力和Strength:Weight变化的回顾性分析.
- 参与者根据训练方案进行分组:只有 Abrahangs,只有 Max Hangs,或两者兼而有之.
- 纳入标准要求在4至16周的时间内进行两次手指强度测试.
主要成果:
- 低强度,频繁的手指负载显示了与最大负载训练相对应的握力强度的改善.
- 与低强度和最大负载协议同时进行训练导致了更大的增强强度.
结论:
- 低强度,长时间的持是指甲力量的可行训练策略.
- 这种方法足够温和,可以纳入现有的登山者培训方案.
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