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男性的登表现:登特定的指强度的重要性
B F Buraas1, M F Brobakken2, E Wang1
1Department of Health and Social Sciences, Molde University College, Britvegen 2, 6410, Molde, Norway.
European journal of applied physiology
|May 5, 2025
概括
登特定的手指强度是男性登者登和红点表现的关键生理因素. 这种力量,用登特定的练习来测量,显著影响登的成功.
科学领域:
- 运动科学 运动科学 运动科学
- 运动生理学 运动生理学
背景情况:
- 岩石登的全球流行度正在增加,其奥运会入选和室内登设施的激增证明了这一点.
- 登表现的具体生理决定因素仍然不清楚,尽管对手指强度有直观的假设.
研究的目的:
- 为了研究同度指强度和登性能 (登和红点) 之间的关系.
- 为了比较登特定的手指强度与不那么具体的措施,如手握和拉力强度.
主要方法:
- 19名男性登山者 (年龄26±3岁) 与已确定的红点水平 (6b+到8c) 参与.
- 同度距离指的强度是通过悬挂在22mm边缘来评估的.
- 登表现通过登和红点成就来评估.
主要成果:
- 登特定的手指强度与登有很强的关联 (r=0.89) 和与红点性能有很强的关联 (r=0.67).
- 手握强度与红点和校园登机有适度的关联,但不是石.
- 拉力强度与石和校园登机相对应,但不是红点性能.
结论:
- 同度距离指强度是与男性岩和红点登表现相关的主要生理因素.
- 对手指强度的评估应利用登特定的练习来准确预测性能.
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