作为红发染料的印第鲁来自Indigofera tinctoria L的染料
Skrollan Klaas1,2, Volkmar Vill2, Fabian Straske1,2
1Henkel AG & Co. KGaA, Hamburg, Germany.
International journal of cosmetic science
|May 21, 2025
概括
现在可以通过添加伊萨和氨酸或甲酸来实现稳定的红色颜色. 这种修订后的合成途径防止了颜色变化,提供了可靠的植物性头发颜色.
科学领域:
- 自然产品化学 自然产品化学
- 皮肤科学 皮肤科学
- 染料化学 染料化学
背景情况:
- 印花 (Indigofera tinctoria L.) 是一种用于发色的天然植物资源.
- 在I. tinctoria L.染发过程中,特有的颜色变化归因于蓝和红的合成途径.
- 控制这些途径对于实现稳定可靠的发色结果至关重要.
研究的目的:
- 为了更详细地了解I. tinctoria和L.头发色素的蓝色和红色合成途径.
- 为了管理染料分子的形成,以消除应用后的颜色变化.
- 为了获得强烈,可靠和稳定的发色结果,使用I. tinctoria L.
主要方法:
- 在雅克头发上进行了头发染色实验,使用I. tinctoria L. 粉末与氨酸,伊沙酸或甲酸.
- 使用CIE实验室颜色空间坐标 (L*,a*,b*) 进行了颜色评估.
- 染料化合物从彩色的头发纤维中提取,并使用高性能液态染色学 (HPLC) 量化.
主要成果:
- 这项研究证实,延迟的印第鲁宾发育与色形成一起导致I. tinctoria L.染色头发的颜色变化.
- 通过添加异氨酸与氨酸或甲酸,立即获得稳定的红色结果.
- 通过HPLC分析证实,伊萨和一种减少剂可以防止印地瓜的形成,并有利于印地鲁的合成.
结论:
- 添加伊萨丁和氨酸或亚斯科布酸会导致立即形成因迪鲁宾而不是青.
- 这使得在I. tinctoria L.应用后,头发立即和稳定地产生红色的结果.
- 介绍了I. tinctoria L. 发色中的蓝和蓝素的修订合成途径,包括添加剂的影响.
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