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相关概念视频

Propagation of Waves01:07

Propagation of Waves

2.8K
When a wave propagates from one medium to another, part of it may get reflected in the first medium, and part of it may get transmitted to the second medium. In such a case, the interface of the two mediums can be considered as a boundary that is neither fixed nor free.
Consider a scenario where a wave propagates from a string of low linear mass density to a string of high linear mass density. In such a case, the reflected wave is out of phase with respect to the incident wave, however the...
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Standing Waves01:17

Standing Waves

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Sometimes waves do not seem to move; rather, they just vibrate in place. Unmoving waves can be seen on the surface of a glass of milk kept in a refrigerator, which is one example of standing waves. Vibrations from the refrigerator motor create waves on the milk that oscillate up and down but do not seem to move across the surface. These waves are formed or created by the superposition of two or more identical moving waves in opposite directions. The waves move through each other, with their...
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Wave Parameters01:10

Wave Parameters

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The simplest mechanical waves are associated with simple harmonic motion and repeat themselves for several cycles. These simple harmonic waves can be modeled using a combination of sine and cosine functions. Consider a simplified surface water wave that moves across the water's surface. Unlike complex ocean waves, in surface water waves, water moves vertically, oscillating up and down, whereas the disturbance of the wave moves horizontally through the medium. If a seagull is floating on the...
9.0K
Reflection of Waves01:07

Reflection of Waves

4.5K
When a wave travels from one medium to another, it gets reflected at the boundary of the second medium. A common example of this is when a person yells at a distance from a cliff and hears the echo of their voice. The sound waves (longitudinal waves) traveling in the air are reflected from the bounding cliff. Similarly, flipping one end of a string whose other end is tied to a wall causes a pulse (transverse wave) to travel through the string, which gets reflected upon reaching the wall. In...
4.5K
Travelling Waves01:04

Travelling Waves

6.7K
A wave is a disturbance that propagates from its source, repeating itself periodically, and is typically associated with simple harmonic motion. Mechanical waves are governed by Newton's laws and require a medium to travel. A medium is a substance in which a mechanical wave propagates, and the medium produces an elastic restoring force when it is deformed.
Water waves, sound waves, and seismic waves are some examples of mechanical waves. For water waves, the wave propagation medium is...
6.7K
Speed of a Transverse Wave01:13

Speed of a Transverse Wave

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The speed of a wave depends on the characteristics of the medium. For example, in the case of a guitar, the strings vibrate to produce the sound. The speed of the waves on the strings and the wavelength determine the frequency of the sound produced. The strings on a guitar have different thicknesses but may be made of similar material. They have different linear densities, and the linear density is defined as the mass per length.
One of the key properties of any wave is the wave speed. Light...
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Measurements of Waves in a Wind-wave Tank Under Steady and Time-varying Wind Forcing
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使用SWOT任务测量最大的海洋波浪.

Fabrice Ardhuin1, Taina Postec1, Mickael Accensi1

  • 1Université de Brest, CNRS, Ifremer, Institut de Recherche pour le Développement, Laboratoire d'Océanographie Physique et Spatiale (LOPS), Institut Universitaire Européen de la Mer, Plouzané F-29280, France.

Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences of the United States of America
|September 16, 2025
PubMed
概括

科学家们使用卫星数据来测量海洋风暴中的长波周期. 这揭示了极端波浪是如何形成的,并可以改善海洋结构设计和沿海动态建模.

关键词:
4波波相互作用的作用.这就是SWOT.海洋的波浪 海洋的波浪风暴,风暴,风暴,风暴,风暴,风暴,风暴,风暴.膨胀 膨胀 膨胀 是一个很好的方法.

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相关实验视频

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Quantitatively Measuring In situ Flows using a Self-Contained Underwater Velocimetry Apparatus SCUVA
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科学领域:

  • 海洋学 海洋学 海洋学
  • 波动力学 波动力学 波动力学
  • 卫星遥感 卫星遥感 卫星遥感

背景情况:

  • 海洋波对海洋结构,空海流和沿海过程至关重要.
  • 极端波浪事件由于测量局限性,特别是波浪周期,人们对其了解甚微.

研究的目的:

  • 研究海洋风暴中长波周期的产生机制.
  • 利用卫星观测到的波浪来推断风暴波的特征.

主要方法:

  • 使用地表水和海洋拓 (SWOT) 卫星海平面测量对波浪的分析.
  • 开发一个更新的参数波谱模型,与SWOT数据保持一致.

主要成果:

  • 波浪波长和高度的观测模式与短到长周期波的能量转移一致.
  • 与现有模型相比,拟议的波谱模型在较长的时间内减少能量.
  • 估计的风暴波周期从膨胀高度开始,最大记录的峰值周期为20.2秒,波高为19.7米.

结论:

  • SWOT数据成功地揭示了风暴中的长波周期及其生成.
  • 这些发现提供了改进的波谱模型和估计极端波浪参数的方法.
  • 应用范围包括沿海动力学,海洋工程和地震学.