通过本地镜头了解服装耐用性:一项与全球各地社区的参与性研究
Hester Vanacker1,2, Andrée-Anne Lemieux3, Kirsi Laitala4
1Arts et Métiers Institute of Technology, The LAMIH UMR CNRS 8201, 151 Boulevard 5 de l'Hôpital, Paris, 75013, France. hester.vanacker@ensam.eu.
Scientific reports
|October 7, 2025
概括
服装的耐用性是复杂的,受当地观点和传统的影响,而不仅仅是质量. 全球立法需要考虑这些不同的因素,以制定有效的环境政策.
科学领域:
- 可持续的时尚 可持续的时尚
- 循环经济是一个循环经济.
- 织品的耐用性 织品的耐用性
背景情况:
- 过度生产低质量的服装导致环境退化,特别是在全球南方.
- 对行业和立法机构来说,评估服装的耐用性至关重要,这些机构的目标是实现循环转型.
- 现有的研究强调了耐久性的内在和外在因素.
研究的目的:
- 通过全球多元化社区的透视来探索和理解服装耐用性.
- 将当地观点纳入服装耐用性的定义和评估.
- 确定当地环境如何塑造对耐用性的看法和做法.
主要方法:
- 采用参与式行动研究方法.
- 与整个服装价值链的利益相关者进行了半结构化采访.
- 从五个不同的全球社区收集了见解:法国,加纳,印度尼西亚,挪威和南非.
主要成果:
- 确定了8个主要趋势,这些趋势标志着服装的耐用性,包括优先考虑质量而不是耐用性,耐用性的动态性,以及价格,品牌和当地环境的影响.
- 揭示了"本地"包括地理接近,价值创造和传统.
- 发现传统服装和织品通常被认为更耐用.
- 突出了当地环境对耐用性定义和实践的重大影响.
结论:
- 当地因素对理解和应用服装耐用性有着深刻的影响.
- 全球立法和服装耐用性标准必须承认并整合这些不同的当地细微差别.
- 有效的可持续时尚倡议需要一个细微的,有意识的方法.
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