重新发明:从稳定的Lawsonia inermis L.提取物中酶催化色彩释放
Nele Dallmann1,2, Volkmar Vill2, Fabian Straske1,2
1Henkel AG & Co. KGaA, Hamburg, Germany.
International journal of cosmetic science
|October 21, 2025
概括
开发一个稳定的,两组合的河染发系统可以改善应用和颜色的一致性. 这种优化的植物性头发染料提供了更好的性能和用户友好性,以实现更广泛的采用.
科学领域:
- 自然产品化学 自然产品化学
- 化品科学 化品科学
- 植物生物化学 植物生物化学
背景情况:
- 劳森亚无力L. (汉娜) 是一种传统的植物性染发剂.
- 活性染料分子Lawson容易过早形成,影响稳定性和性能.
- 目前的河配方往往缺乏可预测性和易用性.
研究的目的:
- 为了增强应用,性能,颜色可预测性和基于的头发染料的稳定性.
- 为了研究法则,在提取过程中释放机制,并优化加工.
- 开发一种稳定的,两组分系统,使用一种前体 (hennosides) 和一种催化剂 (β-glucosidase).
主要方法:
- 的提取使用化,索克斯莱特和工业方法与各种溶剂.
- 通过HPLC和色度测定分析,分析提取物中的lawsone,henosides,多,金属和降解糖.
- 用CIELab颜色系统评估染色的雅克头发的颜色结果和洗性.
主要成果:
- 配方与预先释放的 lawsone 显示在4周内不稳定.
- 凝配方含有henosides和延迟酶添加保持稳定超过8周.
- 乙醇和水性沸点提取产生了丰富于亨诺酸的提取物,没有过早的激素形成.
- 这种两组合凝系统在颜色强度和洗速度上与传统糊相匹配,应用和冲洗得到了改进.
结论:
- 优化的加工和配方设计导致了用户友好,有效和稳定的植物性染发剂.
- 这种由两个组成部分组成的系统解决了传统的河染料的稳定性和应用挑战.
- 这一创新支持消费者更广泛地采用天然发色剂.
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