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指的和伸展肌肉负荷的分担:爬握力技术的影响
Xavier Hugues1, Franck Quaine1, Antoine Nordez2
1Univ. Grenoble Alpes, CNRS, Grenoble INP, GIPSA-lab, 38000 Grenoble, France.
剪波弹性图 (SWE) 揭示了岩登的缩和斜坡抓中明显的肌肉招募模式. 屈曲指深部 (FDP) 是斜坡抓地关键,而屈曲指表面 (FDS) 在抓地更活跃.
科学领域:
- 生物力学 生物力学
- 运动科学 运动科学 运动科学
- 肌肉骨超声波 肌肉骨超声波
背景情况:
- 岩依赖于手指尖的力量从和斜坡抓.
- 在这些抓握中评估个体肌肉贡献是具有挑战性的.
- 剪波弹性图 (SWE) 提供了一种非侵入性方法来评估肌肉性和招募.
研究的目的:
- 为了比较使用SWE的指深部 (FDP),指表面 (FDS) 和延伸指共同体 (EDC) 肌肉收缩,在和斜坡抓地之间使用SWE.
- 评估经验丰富的岩者在同度收缩期间SWE测量的可重复性.
- 为了将肌肉硬与手指尖强力施加在不同握力类型中的相关性.
主要方法:
- 46名经验丰富的登山者在和斜坡抓地进行了亚最大的同度指尖力度.
- 剪切波弹性学 (SWE) 量化了FDP,FDS和EDC的肌肉剪切模量.
- 数据与自定义人体力计的指尖力测量同步.
- 使用类内相关系数 (ICC) 和标准测量误差 (SEM) 评估了SWE测量的可重复性.
主要成果:
- 在评估肌肉度方面,SWE的可靠性中等至优异 (ICC:0.62-0.83).
- 在斜坡抓中,FDP表现出更大的性,而在纹抓中,FDS表现出更大的性.
- EDC的刚度在两种握力中都随着力量的增加而增加,这表明了合收缩,更多的是在斜坡握力中.
- 两种抓类型之间的肌肉招募模式有显著差异,反映了抓特定的生物力学.
结论:
- SWE是一种可靠的工具,用于评估岩登手柄的功能肌肉力学.
- 握柄类型显著影响前臂 flexor 肌肉 (FDP 和 FDS) 的招募.
- 了解这些掌握特定的肌肉激活有助于预防伤害和优化登山者的表现.
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