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Topical L-ascorbic acid: percutaneous absorption studies.

S R Pinnell1, H Yang, M Omar

  • 1Duke University Medical Center, Department of Medicine, Durham, North Carolina 27707, USA. pinne002@mc.duke.edu

Dermatologic Surgery : Official Publication for American Society for Dermatologic Surgery [Et Al.]
|February 24, 2001
PubMed
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Topical L-ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) effectively penetrates the skin when formulated at a pH below 3.5. Optimal delivery requires specific formulation characteristics for enhanced antioxidant protection.

Area of Science:

  • Dermatology
  • Cosmetic Science
  • Biochemistry

Background:

  • Ultraviolet (UV) light generates reactive oxygen species (ROS) that cause skin photodamage, including photoaging and photocarcinogenesis.
  • Antioxidants play a crucial role in mitigating cellular damage induced by UV radiation and environmental stressors.

Purpose of the Study:

  • To determine the optimal formulation parameters for effective topical delivery of L-ascorbic acid into the skin.
  • To enhance the skin's natural antioxidant defenses through improved L-ascorbic acid penetration.

Main Methods:

  • Percutaneous delivery of L-ascorbic acid and its derivatives was assessed using ex vivo pig skin models.
  • Skin concentrations of L-ascorbic acid were quantified to evaluate absorption efficiency.

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Main Results:

  • L-ascorbic acid requires a formulation pH below 3.5 for significant skin penetration.
  • Optimal percutaneous absorption was achieved at a 20% concentration, with tissue saturation occurring after three daily applications.
  • The estimated half-life for L-ascorbic acid in the skin tissue was approximately 4 days.
  • Tested ascorbic acid derivatives (magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl-6-palmitate, dehydroascorbic acid) did not enhance skin L-ascorbic acid levels.

Conclusions:

  • The efficacy of topical L-ascorbic acid for skin benefits is highly dependent on precise formulation characteristics.
  • Achieving adequate skin penetration of L-ascorbic acid is critical for its antioxidant and photoprotective effects.