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Use of a hypobaric chamber for pre-acclimatization before climbing Mount Everest
J P Richalet1, J Bittel, J P Herry
1Association pour la Recherche en Physiologie de l'Environnement, U. F. R. Médecine, Bobigny, France.
International Journal of Sports Medicine
|October 1, 1992
Summary
Pre-acclimatization using altitude simulation significantly reduced the time elite climbers spent at high altitudes. This method accelerated ascent to Mount Everest by 1-3 weeks, enhancing safety and efficiency.
Area of Science:
- Sports Science
- Altitude Physiology
- Human Physiology
Background:
- Climbing Mount Everest requires extensive acclimatization (3-4 weeks) at high altitudes (3000-6000m).
- Prolonged exposure to dangerous high-altitude conditions necessitates strategies to reduce acclimatization time.
Purpose of the Study:
- To evaluate the efficacy of a pre-acclimatization protocol in elite alpinists before climbing Mount Everest.
- To determine if simulated altitude exposure can shorten the required in-situ acclimatization period.
Main Methods:
- Five elite alpinists underwent a pre-acclimatization regimen including one week on Mont-Blanc (4350-4807m) and 38 hours in a hypobaric chamber (5000-8500m).
- Physiological markers including hemoglobin concentration and arterial oxygen saturation were monitored.
- Ascent speed and time to reach high altitudes on Mount Everest were recorded.
Main Results:
- Pre-acclimatization increased hemoglobin by 12% and arterial oxygen saturation during hypoxic exercise from 75% to 82%.
- Ventilatory response to hypoxia showed no significant change.
- Climbers achieved 7800m just five days after leaving base camp, with a rapid 5600m altitude gain in 6 days.
Conclusions:
- Pre-acclimatization protocols can trigger efficient physiological adaptations for high-altitude climbing.
- This strategy allows for a significant reduction in time spent at dangerous altitudes, potentially saving 1-3 weeks.
- Simulated altitude exposure offers a viable method to accelerate acclimatization for extreme mountaineering expeditions.