Nonisothermal denaturation kinetics of human hair and the effects of oxidation

Human hair as alpha-keratin fiber exhibits a complex morphology, which for the context of this investigation is considered as a filament/matrix-composite, comprising the intermediate filaments (IF) and a variety of amorphous protein components as matrix. Differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) under aqueous conditions was used to analyze the denaturation of the alpha-helical material in the IFs and to assess the changes imparted by repeated, oxidative bleaching processes. The DSC curves were submitted to kinetic analysis by applying the Friedman method and assuming first order kinetics. It was found that the course of the denaturation process remains largely unchanged through oxidation, despite the fact that pronounced decreases of denaturation temperature as well as of enthalpy occur. In parallel, the reaction rate constant at the denaturation temperature, k(TD), increases with repeated treatments, that is with cumulative chemical modification. However, this effect is in fact small compared to the overall change of k(T) through the denaturation process. This leads to conclude that once the temperature rise in combination with the chemical change has induced a suitable drop of the viscosity of the matrix around the IFs, denaturation of the remaining helical material occurs along a pathway that is largely independent of temperature and of the pretreatment history. This emphasizes the kinetic control of the matrix over the denaturation process of the helical segments in the filament/matrix composite.