Formulating for efficacy
J W Wiechers1, C L Kelly, T G Blease
1Uniqema Skin R&D, Gouda, The Netherlands. johann.wiechers@uniqema.com
International Journal of Cosmetic Science
|May 23, 2008
Summary
Achieving effective cosmetic products requires precise delivery of active ingredients. A new Relative Polarity Index helps select emollients to control ingredient penetration and enhance cosmetic efficacy.
Area of Science:
- Cosmetic Science
- Dermatology
- Formulation Chemistry
Background:
- Active ingredients are crucial for cosmetic product efficacy.
- Current cosmetic formulations may not ensure optimal delivery of active ingredients.
- Effective delivery requires the right active, location, concentration, and duration.
Purpose of the Study:
- To establish a method for optimizing active ingredient delivery in cosmetic formulations.
- To investigate the role of formulation components in controlling skin penetration.
- To enhance the efficacy of cosmetic products through targeted delivery.
Main Methods:
- Development of the Relative Polarity Index (RPI) based on ingredient polarity and skin properties.
- Selection of emollients using the RPI to ensure skin penetration.
- Evaluation of different emulsifier systems for their impact on active ingredient delivery.
Main Results:
- The Relative Polarity Index effectively guides the selection of emollients for enhanced skin penetration.
- Formulation adjustments, particularly emollient systems, can regulate the delivery and concentration of active molecules.
- Emulsifier systems also show potential in directing actives to specific skin layers, though further research is needed.
Conclusions:
- The RPI is a valuable tool for formulating active cosmetic products with predictable efficacy.
- Controlling the emollient system is key to regulating active ingredient delivery and enhancing cosmetic performance.
- Further investigation into emulsifier systems is warranted to fully understand their role in targeted active delivery.
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