Hair breakage--how to measure and counteract

A system to determine the efficacy of hair treatments in terms of anti-breakage and split end prevention was developed which involves the repeated combing of hair strands. The device allows ten hair strands to be combed simultaneously. First, the influences of chemical hair treatments like bleaching on hair breakage were examined. In a next step, the protective effects of benchmark products from the market were studied. Since nearly all commercial products with anti-breakage claims contain silicones combined with cationic polymers, alternative actives were searched. In a test series with different waxes in shampoo formulations with a variable number of parameters, the particle size was found to be the factor with the strongest influence on the amount of wax deposited on the shampooed hair. Therefore, a targeted development was started, resulting in a combination of several ethers dispersed in sodium laureth sulfate. Excellent conditioning, anti-breakage and split ends protection properties of the compound were found, showing also a dosage dependency. The latter could be explained by analyzing the amounts of waxes applied on treated hair. In these experiments, a dependency on the concentration in the shampoo was found.