NMR spectroscopic study of the Murex trunculus dyeing process

It is widely accepted that indigo dyes derived from Murex trunculus were used to produce the biblical dyes tekhelet and argaman. We describe a method of following the debromination of natural leucoindigos and their binding to wool using NMR spectroscopy. Debromination is observed prior to reaction with the wool and prior to oxidation. Binding to the wool is shown to occur prior to oxidation. NMR allows the dyeing process to be followed. This, in principle, could be used to correct problems during dyeing that would increase the reliability of the process.