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Liquid-crystalline membrane permeation ability for selected nitro hair dyes
Iwona Bialas1, Jacek Arct, Miroslaw Mojski
1Academy of Cosmetics and Health Care, Warsaw, Poland. i.bialas@wszkipz.pl
Aim:
A comparison of permeation ability of selected semi-permanent hair dyes and an attempt to estimate the influence of fundamental physicochemical parameters on dyes' epidermal penetration rate.
Methods:
Dyes' permeation ability through liposome membrane (as a model of stratum corneum) with side-by-side cells was assessed.
Results:
It has been shown that the chosen dyes are capable of permeating the membrane. High penetration coefficients (Kp) were obtained for a simple nitrophenylenediamines and nitroaminophenols. Their N-, O-hydroxyalkyl substitution significantly limits penetration. H-bonding capability has a major impact on the investigated dyes' permeation ability. Substituents with H-bonding properties can significantly limit dyes' penetration, even in the case of lipophilic structures. Special attention should be placed into compounds with strong intramolecular H-bonding properties, which improve transmembrane transport.
Conclusion:
Substitution patterns have an influence on selected nitro dyes' permeation through a model stratum corneum. Permeation is limited by dyes diffusive properties (mostly by its H-bonding properties). Hydroxyalkylation results in hindered dyes permeation: purple, violet and blue nitrophenylenediamine or nitroaminophenol derivatives are less permeable than its not substituted analogues.
