Note on the velocity and related fields of steady irrotational two-dimensional surface gravity waves

Didier Clamond1

  • 1Laboratoire J.-A. Dieudonné, Université de Nice - Sophia Antipolis, Parc Valrose, 06108 Nice Cedex 2, France. didierc@unice.fr

Related Concept Videos

Velocity and Acceleration of a Wave00:51

Velocity and Acceleration of a Wave

A wave propagates through a medium with a constant speed, known as a wave velocity. It is different from the speed of the particles of the medium, which is not constant. In addition, the velocity of the medium is perpendicular to the velocity of the wave. The variable speed of the particles of the medium implies that there must be acceleration associated with it. 
The velocity of the particles can be obtained by taking the partial derivative of the position equation with respect to time. We can...
Irrotational Flow01:28

Irrotational Flow

Irrotational flow is characterized by fluid motion where particles do not rotate around their axes, resulting in zero vorticity. For a flow to be irrotational, the curl of the velocity field must be zero. This imposes specific conditions on velocity gradients. For instance, to maintain zero rotation about the z-axis, the gradient condition:
Deriving the Speed of Sound in a Liquid01:09

Deriving the Speed of Sound in a Liquid

As with waves on a string, the speed of sound or a mechanical wave in a fluid depends on the fluid's elastic modulus and inertia. The two relevant physical quantities are the bulk modulus and the density of the material. Indeed, it turns out that the relationship between speed and the bulk modulus and density in fluids is the same as that between the speed and the Young's modulus and density in solids.
The speed of sound in fluids can be derived by considering a mechanical wave propagating...
Velocity Potential01:20

Velocity Potential

In steady, incompressible flow through a long, straight pipe with a uniform cross-section, the flow in the central region (far from the pipe walls) is irrotational. This irrotational nature means that fluid particles do not rotate around their axes, and a scalar function called the velocity potential, represented by ϕ, can be used to describe their movement. In irrotational flows, the velocity field V is defined as the gradient of the velocity potential:
Velocity and Acceleration in Steady and Unsteady Flow01:11

Velocity and Acceleration in Steady and Unsteady Flow

In fluid mechanics, velocity and acceleration are key concepts for analyzing particle motion in both steady and unsteady flow. Consider a fluid particle moving along a pathline, where its velocity depends on its position and time. The particle's acceleration is obtained by differentiating the velocity with respect to time.
The acceleration can be generalized to any point in the flow, and expressed as components along three perpendicular directions, representing changes in velocity over time.
Navier–Stokes Equations01:28

Navier–Stokes Equations

For incompressible Newtonian fluids, where density remains constant, stresses show a linear relationship with the deformation rate, defined by normal and shear stresses. Normal stresses depend on the pressure exerted on the fluid and the rate of deformation in specific directions, which determines how fluid flows under varying pressures. Shear stresses, on the other hand, act tangentially across fluid layers. They explain how adjacent fluid layers slide relative to one another, connecting...