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New approach for a reliable in vitro sun protection factor method - Part II: Practical aspects and implementations.

S Miksa1, D Lutz2, C Guy2

  • 1HelioScreen, 44 rue Léon Blum, 60100, Creil, France. smiksa@helioscreen.fr.

International Journal of Cosmetic Science
|April 10, 2016
PubMed
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A new in vitro sun protection factor (SPF) method is adaptable for SPF labeling on all sunscreen types. This reliable, cost-effective, and practical method correlates well with in vivo SPF results.

Area of Science:

  • Dermatology
  • Cosmetic Science
  • Photobiology

Background:

  • Previous research established a reproducible in vitro sun protection factor (SPF) method correlated with in vivo results.
  • An internationally relevant SPF method requires adaptability across diverse commercial sunscreen formulations.

Purpose of the Study:

  • To validate a novel in vitro SPF method for practical application on a wide range of sunscreen products.
  • To demonstrate the method's ability to yield results comparable to in vivo SPF measurements for labeling purposes.

Main Methods:

  • Spectroradiometric measurement of residual ultraviolet (UV) transmission through sunscreen samples applied robotically to a substrate.
  • Utilized a multisubstrate solution with a single UV pre-irradiation dose for enhanced reliability.
Keywords:
accuracyin vitroreproducibilitystandardsun protection factorsunscreen

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  • Evaluated the method across five distinct sunscreen categories: emulsions, oils, alcohol-based, sticks, and powders.

    • Main Results:

    • The in vitro SPF method demonstrated good reproducibility and accuracy, with a mean coefficient of variation (CV%) of approximately 7%.
    • High coefficients of correlation (0.8-1.0) were achieved between the in vitro method and clinical SPF measurements across all tested product types.
    • The method proved effective for diverse formulations, including emulsions, oils, alcohol-based products, sticks, and powders.

    Conclusions:

    • The developed in vitro SPF method is suitable for SPF labeling of all sunscreen product types.
    • The method offers advantages of being non-invasive, cost-effective, practical, and reliable when conducted under stringent conditions.
    • Validation across 113 sunscreen products in Parts I and II supports its broad applicability for regulatory and commercial use.