[Cosmetics and topical medications in acne: Where is the boundary?]

Acne is a chronic disease that may cause sequels such as atrophic or hypertrophic scars or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Topical and systemic medications with proven pharmacologic activity and which have received marketing authorization are the key actors in the treatment of acne. However, these topical or systemic treatments frequently cause adverse effects related to impairment of the skin barrier, and cosmetics must therefore be used in combination to help protect the skin barrier. Nowadays, new cosmetic products containing active ingredients tested in vitro or in a small number of subjects have changed the world of cosmetics. In being described as "dermo-cosmetic" and in integrating active ingredients in their formulations, these cosmetics are now being presented as being specifically adapted for a given disease, and no longer limited to skin care and hygiene but suitable as an adjunctive or even an alternative to current medications. The aim of this article is to provide a better understanding of the respective roles of medications and cosmetics in the management of acne.