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Propagation of Waves01:07

Propagation of Waves

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When a wave propagates from one medium to another, part of it may get reflected in the first medium, and part of it may get transmitted to the second medium. In such a case, the interface of the two mediums can be considered as a boundary that is neither fixed nor free.
Consider a scenario where a wave propagates from a string of low linear mass density to a string of high linear mass density. In such a case, the reflected wave is out of phase with respect to the incident wave, however the...
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A wave is a disturbance that propagates from its source, repeating itself periodically, and is typically associated with simple harmonic motion. Mechanical waves are governed by Newton's laws and require a medium to travel. A medium is a substance in which a mechanical wave propagates, and the medium produces an elastic restoring force when it is deformed.
Water waves, sound waves, and seismic waves are some examples of mechanical waves. For water waves, the wave propagation medium is...
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Equations of Wave Motion01:02

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Mathematically, the motion of a wave can be studied using a wavefunction. Consider a string oscillating up and down in simple harmonic motion, having a period T. The wave on the string is sinusoidal and is translated in the positive x-direction as time progresses. Sine is a function of the angle θ, oscillating between +A and −A and repeating every 2π radians. To construct a wave model, the ratio of the angle θ and the position x is considered.
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Standing Waves01:17

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Sometimes waves do not seem to move; rather, they just vibrate in place. Unmoving waves can be seen on the surface of a glass of milk kept in a refrigerator, which is one example of standing waves. Vibrations from the refrigerator motor create waves on the milk that oscillate up and down but do not seem to move across the surface. These waves are formed or created by the superposition of two or more identical moving waves in opposite directions. The waves move through each other, with their...
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Standing Waves in a Cavity01:28

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A household microwave and lasers are examples of standing electromagnetic waves in a cavity. When two conducting metal plates are placed parallel at the nodal planes, it creates a cavity where standing waves are formed. The cavity between the two planes is analogous to a stretched string held at the points x = 0 and x = L. Here, the distance 'L' between the two planes must be an integer multiple of half of the wavelength. The wavelengths that satisfy this condition are given by:
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Modes of Standing Waves: II01:04

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The starting point for expressing the modes of standing waves is understanding the boundary conditions that the waves must follow. The boundary conditions are derived from the physical understanding of how the standing waves are sustained, that is, how the vibrating particles of the medium behave at the boundaries imposed on them.
For a tube open at one end and closed at the other filled with air, the modes are such that there is always an antinode at the open end and a node at the closed end....
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Related Experiment Video

Updated: Feb 17, 2026

Measurements of Waves in a Wind-wave Tank Under Steady and Time-varying Wind Forcing
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Measurements of Waves in a Wind-wave Tank Under Steady and Time-varying Wind Forcing

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On three-dimensional Gerstner-like equatorial water waves.

D Henry1

  • 1Department of Applied Mathematics, University College Cork, Cork T12 XF62, Ireland d.henry@ucc.ie.

Philosophical Transactions. Series A, Mathematical, Physical, and Engineering Sciences
|December 13, 2017
PubMed
Summary
This summary is machine-generated.

This research reviews mathematical models for nonlinear geophysical water waves. It surveys exact solutions for equatorial oceanic waves and wave-current interactions.

Keywords:
Gerstner's waveexact solutiongeophysical water waveswave–current interactions

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Area of Science:

  • Fluid dynamics
  • Applied mathematics
  • Geophysics

Background:

  • Nonlinear geophysical water waves are crucial for understanding oceanic phenomena.
  • Existing models often lack exact solutions for complex wave behaviors.

Purpose of the Study:

  • To review recent mathematical research on nonlinear geophysical water waves.
  • To survey exact Gerstner-like solutions for modeling equatorial oceanic waves and wave-current interactions.

Main Methods:

  • Review of existing mathematical literature.
  • Analysis of exact nonlinear, three-dimensional solutions in Lagrangian variables.

Main Results:

  • Identification and survey of several exact Gerstner-like solutions.
  • Demonstration of these solutions' applicability to equatorial wave phenomena and wave-current interactions.

Conclusions:

  • Exact solutions provide valuable tools for studying nonlinear geophysical water waves.
  • Further research in this area can enhance our understanding of oceanic dynamics.