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Fingerprints of flower absolutes using supercritical fluid chromatography hyphenated with high resolution mass
Cyrille Santerre1, Nadine Vallet2, David Touboul3
1Institut Supérieur International Parfum Cosmétique Arômes, Plateforme scientifique, ISIPCA, 34-36 rue du parc de Clagny, 78000 Versailles, France; CNRS, Institut de Chimie des Substances Naturelles, UPR2301, Université Paris-Sud, Université Paris-Saclay, Avenue de la Terrasse, 91190 Gif-sur-Yvette, France.
Abstract:
Supercritical fluid chromatography hyphenated with high resolution mass spectrometry (SFC-HRMS) was developed for fingerprint analysis of different flower absolutes commonly used in cosmetics field, especially in perfumes. Supercritical fluid chromatography-atmospheric pressure photoionization-high resolution mass spectrometry (SFC-APPI-HRMS) technique was employed to identify the components of the fingerprint. The samples were separated with a porous graphitic carbon (PGC) Hypercarb™ column (100 mm × 2.1 mm, 3 μm) by gradient elution using supercritical CO2 and ethanol (0.0-20.0 min (2-30% B), 20.0-25.0 min (30% B), 25.0-26.0 min (30-2% B) and 26.0-30.0 min (2% B)) as mobile phase at a flow rate of 1.5 mL/min. In order to compare the SFC fingerprints between five different flower absolutes: Jasminum grandiflorum absolutes, Jasminum sambac absolutes, Narcissus jonquilla absolutes, Narcissus poeticus absolutes, Lavandula angustifolia absolutes from different suppliers and batches, the chemometric procedure including principal component analysis (PCA) was applied to classify the samples according to their genus and their species. Consistent results were obtained to show that samples could be successfully discriminated.
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