Bioprofiling of Cosmetics with Focus on Streamlined Coumarin Analysis

Facing the widespread use of cosmetic products in daily use and recognizing the very limited information obtained by target analysis, a method suited for comprehensive characterization of cosmetics was aimed at. The biological activity of ingredients of 20 cosmetics taken from 16 different product groups and their coumarin contents were investigated via chromatography linked to bioassays (direct bioautography) and mass spectrometry. It allows for screening a large number of cosmetic products within a short time to generate a more valid database on their coumarin content and their contribution to the overall exposure. Bioactivity profiling of cosmetics with regard to bioactive ingredients opens new avenues for a comprehensive characterization of important substances in products of daily use, helpful for the legally required safety and risk assessment of cosmetic products, especially for multiple product usage. As for coumarin, a ubiquitary fragrance compound of allergenic potential, which is under recurrent discussion due to its hepatoxic properties, it is necessary to be able to estimate the regular intake via cosmetics for a valid risk assessment. This newly developed bioprofiling method allowed a selective determination of coumarin down to 1.3 mg kg^-1, even for very matrix-rich cosmetics despite minimalism in sample preparation. The declaration limits according to European Cosmetics Regulation were completely covered. Mean coumarin contents of 20 cosmetic products reached up to 2218 mg kg^-1. The repeatabilities (%RSD, n = 3) were between 1.1 and 2.9%, and the mean recoveries (n = 5) were between 96 and 102% for the different cosmetic matrices.