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Understanding Solar Skin Elastosis-Cause and Treatment.
Sabine Pain1, Nicolas Berthélémy1, Corinne Naudin1
1BASF Beauty Care Solutions, Lyon 69007, France (S.P., N.B., C.N., V.D., V.A.).
Journal of Cosmetic Science
|July 28, 2018
Summary
Photoageing causes premature skin aging by disrupting elastin fiber balance. A specific Hamamelis virginiana extract restored this balance, reducing skin damage and wrinkles.
Area of Science:
- Dermatology
- Biochemistry
- Cosmetic Science
Background:
- Photoageing, or actinic ageing, is a primary driver of premature skin aging.
- Ultraviolet (UV) light exposure disrupts the balance of elastin fibers, leading to an accumulation of nonfunctional elastin.
- UV radiation also stimulates fibroblast elafin synthesis, a marker of elastotic aggregates that hinders natural skin repair.
Purpose of the Study:
- To investigate the mechanism of UV-induced skin ageing related to elastin and lysyl oxidase (LOXL1).
- To develop and evaluate a Hamamelis virginiana leaf extract for its potential to counteract photoageing.
- To assess the extract's efficacy in restoring elastin fiber function and reducing skin damage markers.
Main Methods:
- Investigated the imbalance between elastin and lysyl oxidase (LOXL1) enzyme activity under UV exposure.
- Assessed the effect of UV rays on elafin synthesis by fibroblasts.
- Developed a specific Hamamelis virginiana leaf extract and evaluated its impact on LOXL1 expression and elafin synthesis.
- Confirmed the extract's efficacy in vivo by measuring changes in wrinkles and skin firmness.
Main Results:
- The specific Hamamelis virginiana extract demonstrated a twofold increase in LOXL1 expression.
- The extract significantly decreased elafin synthesis, thereby reducing the formation of nonfunctional elastin aggregates.
- In vivo studies confirmed a reduction in wrinkles and an improvement in skin firmness.
Conclusions:
- UV-induced photoageing disrupts elastin homeostasis, leading to premature skin ageing.
- A specific Hamamelis virginiana leaf extract effectively restores the elastin/LOXL1 balance and reduces elafin synthesis.
- This extract offers a promising therapeutic approach for combating photoageing, improving skin structure and appearance.
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