Cosmeceutical activities of ethanol extract and its ethyl acetate fraction from coffee silverskin

Coffee silverskin is a thin film that covers the raw coffee bean. In general, coffee silverskin, which detaches during the coffee roasting process, is disposed as firelighters or dispatched to landfills and can cause serious environmental pollution. The aim of this study was to investigate the feasibility of using coffee silverskin as a functional material in cosmetics by evaluating its bioactive ingredients, antioxidative activity, cytoprotective effect, matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1)-inhibiting effect, and anti-melanogenesis effect.

To this end, a 50% ethanol (EtOH) extract and its ethyl acetate (EtOAc) fraction were prepared from coffee silverskin; caffeine was found to be the major compound in the extract. Both the 50% EtOH extract and its EtOAc fraction exhibited antioxidant activities. However, the EtOAc fraction showed a greater radical-scavenging activity and reducing power than that shown by the 50% EtOH extract. Furthermore, the EtOAc fraction increased cell viability in a UVB-irradiated human keratinocyte injury model and significantly suppressed UVB-induced MMP-1 expression and α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-stimulated melanin production in HaCaT keratinocytes and B16F1 melanocytes, respectively. Interestingly, caffeine, the major component of the EtOAc fraction, did not show an inhibitory effect. Thus, the antioxidant capacity of the coffee silverskin extract may be attributable to some compounds that exhibit a high antioxidant capacity even at low concentrations or the total antioxidant capacity of various constituent phenolic compounds.

Our findings indicate that coffee silverskin has the potential for application as a natural functional material in multifunctional cosmetics.