Determinants for success in climbing: A systematic review

Area of Science:

• Sports Science
• Exercise Physiology
• Biomechanics

Background:

• The popularity of climbing sports has surged, necessitating an understanding of the unique physical and psychological demands.
• Identifying key performance factors is essential for optimizing athlete development and training protocols.

Purpose of the Study:

• To review and synthesize the physiological, biomechanical, and psychological factors contributing to elite climbing performance.
• To evaluate the effectiveness of various training and recovery strategies in enhancing climbing ability.

Main Methods:

• A comprehensive literature search was conducted across Medline (PubMed), Cochrane Library, and Google Scholar.
• The search covered studies published up to September 2018, focusing on climbing performance determinants.

Main Results:

• Key anthropometric factors include low skinfold thickness, reduced body fat, and large forearm circumference.
• Physiological advantages encompass well-developed forearm flexors, high aerobic capacity, and significant hand grip strength and endurance.
• Psychological assessments revealed an "iceberg profile" in elite climbers, characterized by optimal mental fortitude.

Conclusions:

• Superior hand and forearm strength and endurance are critical for elite climbers.
• An efficient climbing style, characterized by focus, accuracy, speed, and low fatigue, is vital.
• Low body fat and specific finger anatomy (large bone-to-tip pulp) are advantageous, alongside consistent, targeted training (e.g., eccentric-concentric) and active recovery.