Advances and controversies in studying sunscreen delivery and toxicity

This review critically evaluates the sunscreen delivery and toxicity field. We chose to focus on approved sunscreens in this review. Optimal sunscreen use prevents skin cancer and photoageing but there is an important knowledge gap in sunscreen/skin interactions. Sunscreen delivery is a key for efficacy, but studying sunscreen delivery is not straightforward. We review the strengths and weaknesses of in vitro, excised skin and clinical approaches. Understanding positive and negative sunscreen effects on skin homeostasis is also challenging. The results in this field, especially in vitro testing, are controversial and experimental design varies widely which further supports disparities between some findings. We hypothesize that bias towards showing sunscreen toxicity to increase impact could be problematic. We explore that perception through a detailed review of experimental design, especially in cell culture models. Our conclusion is that emerging, non- and minimally invasive technologies are enabling new approaches to volunteer studies that could significantly improve knowledge of sunscreen delivery and interactions.