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Hangboard training in advanced climbers: A randomized controlled trial
Saskia Mundry1, Gino Steinmetz1, Elizabeth J Atkinson2
1Department of Trauma, Orthopedics and Reconstructive Surgery, Georg-August-University of Goettingen, Robert-Koch-Straße 40, 37075, Göttingen, Germany.
Scientific Reports
|June 30, 2021
Summary
Adding weight during hangboard training significantly boosts climber grip strength more than endurance protocols or regular climbing. Maximizing weight on hangboards is a superior method for enhancing finger and forearm power.
Area of Science:
- Sports Science
- Exercise Physiology
- Climbing Biomechanics
Background:
- Effective training is crucial for improving climbing performance.
- Hangboard training is a popular method for increasing finger and forearm strength.
- Two common hangboard protocols involve maximizing weight or minimizing edge size.
Purpose of the Study:
- To compare the effectiveness of two hangboard training protocols: maximizing weight versus hang endurance.
- To determine which protocol leads to superior improvements in grip strength for climbers.
Main Methods:
- 30 intermediate to advanced climbers (UIAA VI-VIII) were prospectively analyzed.
- Participants were randomized into three groups: control, hang endurance (HE), and hang weight (HW).
- An 8-week protocol measured grip strength in seven different pinches before and after training.
Main Results:
- The hang weight (HW) group showed significant improvements in grip strength compared to the control group (p=0.032, ES=0.36).
- Maximizing weight training improved strength in specific grips (I/II+III, I/II+III+IV, fist) and overall grip strength.
- The hang endurance (HE) group did not show significant strength improvements compared to the control group.
Conclusions:
- An 8-week hangboard protocol with progressively increasing weights (HW) significantly enhances overall grip strength more than standard climbing training.
- Maximizing weight during hangboard training is a superior method for improving grip strength in climbers compared to hang endurance protocols.
