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The Load Structure in International Competitive Climbing.

Marvin Winkler1, Stefan Künzell1, Claudia Augste1

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Analyzing competitive climbing loads reveals distinct performance profiles across speed, bouldering, lead, and combined disciplines. This data informs sport-specific training and testing protocols for elite athletes.

Keywords:
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Area of Science:

  • Sports Science
  • Biomechanics
  • Exercise Physiology

Background:

  • Understanding competitive load structures is crucial for developing effective performance models.
  • Sport-specific testing and training protocols rely on accurate load analysis.

Purpose of the Study:

  • To characterize the external load structure in international competitive climbing.
  • To analyze speed, bouldering, lead, and Olympic combined disciplines.

Main Methods:

  • Video analysis of elite athletes in competition.
  • Quantification of moves, attempt durations, climbing times, actions, and contact/reach times.

Main Results:

  • Speed climbing: 9-11 moves, ~0.6-0.7s/move.
  • Bouldering: median 3-4 attempts/problem, ~27s/attempt.
  • Lead climbing: ~4min climb time, ~30 actions, ~6s contact time.
  • Olympic combined: ~3h duration, high load, short rest periods.

Conclusions:

  • Each climbing discipline exhibits a unique external load profile.
  • Characterized loads provide a basis for optimizing training and performance strategies.
  • Olympic combined presents a demanding, extended competition format.