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Designing topical hyaluronic acid technology-Size does matter….

Alan D Widgerow1,2, Mary E Ziegler1,2, John A Garruto2

  • 1Center for Tissue Engineering, Department of Plastic Surgery, University of California, Irvine, Irvine, California, USA.

Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology
|April 29, 2022
PubMed
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High molecular weight hyaluronic acid (HA) promotes skin regeneration. A novel octapeptide was identified to significantly boost high MW HA production in fibroblasts for enhanced topical applications.

Keywords:
high molecular weight HAhyaluronic acidhydrationoctapeptide

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Area of Science:

  • Dermatology and Cellular Biology
  • Extracellular Matrix (ECM) Homeostasis
  • Hyaluronic Acid (HA) Metabolism

Background:

  • Hyaluronic acid (HA) is crucial for skin health, with varying molecular weights (MW) exhibiting distinct biological effects.
  • High MW HA is recognized for its anti-inflammatory and regenerative properties, contrasting with the pro-inflammatory nature of low MW HA.
  • Developing topical HA formulations focused on high MW HA is a promising strategy for skin regeneration.

Purpose of the Study:

  • To identify active agents capable of stimulating high molecular weight (MW) hyaluronic acid (HA) production.
  • To investigate novel topical HA technology for enhanced skin hydration and regeneration.
  • To explore the potential of specific peptides in promoting fibroblast HA synthesis.

Main Methods:

  • Human dermal fibroblasts and keratinocytes were treated with various agents.
  • RNA sequencing (RNA-seq) identified genes involved in HA synthesis.
  • Polyacrylamide gel electrophoresis (PAGE) and hyaluronidase treatment assessed HA production and MW.

Main Results:

  • RNA-seq revealed agents that upregulated HA-related genes, with hexapeptide-11 and a proprietary octapeptide showing significant effects.
  • PAGE confirmed robust HA production stimulated by the octapeptide, yielding HA of approximately 2 Mega Daltons.
  • The proprietary octapeptide demonstrated the most potent stimulation of high MW HA synthesis among tested agents.

Conclusions:

  • In vitro studies identified agents that effectively stimulate high MW HA production.
  • This novel approach using exclusively high MW HA topical application aims to maximize hydration and promote ECM regenerative activity.
  • Further multi-center trials are in progress to validate these findings.