Rapid and non-destructive differentiation of Shahtoosh from Pashmina/Cashmere wool using ATR FT-IR spectroscopy

Shahtoosh, the most expensive and sought-after wool in the illegal wildlife trade is obtained from the underfur of a critically endangered species-the Tibetan Antelope (Pantholops hodgsonii). It is often adulterated or mixed with the wool of Pashmina goat (Capra aegagrus hircus) for making shawls, scarves and other woolen articles to maximize the profit. The comparable fineness, color and texture, makes it a challenging task in wildlife forensics to differentiate them. In this study, an attempt has been made to differentiate 50 reference unprocessed underfur hairs from five individuals of each species using ATR FT-IR spectroscopy in combination with chemometric tools such as PCA, and PLS-DA. Results of PCA model demonstrated slight overlap and thus failed to distinguish hairs of these two species. Subsequently, PLS-DA model was employed, and also validation tests (external and blind testing) were carried out to ensure the predictive ability of the model, which resulted in 100% accuracy. The results of PLS-DA model exhibited complete differentiation between Shahtoosh, Pashmina and Angora (Oryctolagus cuniculus domesticus) wool used for external validation study with highly significant predictive ability (R-square value 0.99). This proof-of-concept study illustrates the potential of ATR FT-IR spectroscopy to complement current forensic microscopic and DNA based technique to analyze hair evidence in wildlife investigations owing to its rapid and non-destructive nature with high degree of confidence, and its ease-of-use with minimal to no sample preparation.