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Updated: Aug 27, 2025
Quantification of Hypopigmentation Activity In Vitro
Published on: March 6, 2019
Pouteria macrophylla Fruit Extract Microemulsion for Cutaneous Depigmentation: Evaluation Using a 3D Pigmented Skin
Ana Clara N Brathwaite1, Thuany Alencar-Silva2, Larissa A C Carvalho3
1Laboratory of Food, Drugs, and Cosmetics (LTMAC), Health Sciences Faculty, University of Brasilia, Brasilia 70910-900, DF, Brazil.
Abstract:
Here, we verify the depigmenting action of Pouteria macrophylla fruit extract (EXT), incorporate it into a safe topical microemulsion and assess its effectiveness in a 3D pigmented skin model. Melanocytes-B16F10- were used to assess the EXT effects on cell viability, melanin synthesis, and melanin synthesis-related gene transcription factor expression, which demonstrated a 32% and 50% reduction of intra and extracellular melanin content, respectively. The developed microemulsion was composed of Cremophor EL®/Span 80 4:1 (w/w), ethyl oleate, and pH 4.5 HEPES buffer and had an average droplet size of 40 nm (PdI 0.40 ± 0.07). Skin irritation test with reconstituted epidermis (Skin Ethic RHETM) showed that the formulation is non-irritating. Tyrosinase inhibition was maintained after skin permeation in vitro, in which microemulsion showed twice the inhibition of the conventional emulsion (20.7 ± 2.2% and 10.7 ± 2.4%, respectively). The depigmenting effect of the microemulsion was finally confirmed in a 3D culture model of pigmented skin, in which histological analysis showed a more pronounced effect than a commercial depigmenting formulation. In conclusion, the developed microemulsion is a promising safe formulation for the administration of cutite fruit extract, which showed remarkable depigmenting potential compared to a commercial formulation.
Insights
Pouteria macrophylla fruit extract (EXT) demonstrates significant depigmenting effects, reducing melanin synthesis. A novel microemulsion formulation enhanced its efficacy and safety for topical application, outperforming commercial products in a 3D skin model.
Area of Science:
- Dermatology and Cosmetology
- Pharmacology
- Materials Science
Background:
- Hyperpigmentation is a common dermatological concern.
- Natural extracts are increasingly explored for cosmetic applications.
- Developing effective and safe delivery systems for active ingredients is crucial.
Purpose of the Study:
- To evaluate the depigmenting potential of Pouteria macrophylla fruit extract (EXT).
- To formulate a safe and effective topical microemulsion for EXT delivery.
- To assess the microemulsion's efficacy in a 3D pigmented skin model.
Main Methods:
- In vitro studies on Melanocytes-B16F10 to assess melanin synthesis and gene expression.
- Development and characterization of a microemulsion (Cremophor EL®/Span 80, ethyl oleate, HEPES buffer).
- In vitro skin permeation assays and non-irritation tests on reconstituted epidermis (Skin Ethic RHE™).
- Evaluation in a 3D pigmented skin culture model.
Main Results:
- EXT reduced intra- and extracellular melanin by 32% and 50%, respectively.
- The microemulsion exhibited a 40 nm droplet size and was non-irritating.
- In vitro skin permeation showed enhanced tyrosinase inhibition compared to conventional emulsion.
- Histological analysis of the 3D model revealed superior depigmenting effects versus a commercial product.
Conclusions:
- Pouteria macrophylla fruit extract possesses significant depigmenting properties.
- The developed microemulsion is a safe and effective topical delivery system for EXT.
- This formulation shows superior efficacy compared to existing commercial depigmenting agents.
