Cosmetic emulsion based on the fucose-rich polysaccharide FucoPol: Bioactive properties and sensorial evaluation

In this study, the physicochemical characteristics, bioactive properties, and sensorial evaluation of a O/W cosmetic formulation containing FucoPol, a fucose-containing bacterial polysaccharide, were assessed. The stability of the FucoPol-based cream, named F-cream, was demonstrated over a period of 2 months at different temperatures (4, 20 and 30 °C), during which it maintained the organoleptic characteristics and pH (5.88-6.19), with minimal variations on the apparent viscosity. Furthermore, no breaking mechanisms occurred upon centrifuging the samples (accelerated stability test) kept at 4 °C and at 30 °C for 60 days. The F-cream presented a shear-thinning and solid-liquid behavior consistent with its envisaged use for topical applications, proving to be a suitable candidate for an anti-aging application due to its antioxidant capacity and effective photoprotection, maintaining cellular preservation. Moreover, the formulation was proven non-cytotoxic for HaCaT cells at concentrations between 0.78 and 12.5 mg/mL, promoting HFFF2 cell migration (46-70 % of wound closure) at a concentration of 2.5 mg/mL, and HaCaT cell migration at a concentration of 10 mg/mL (95-98 % of wound closure). Upon application over the skin, the F-cream provided a hydration and softness with desired spreadability with no residues after application. These findings show that FucoPol has good potential to be used as a functional and/or active ingredient in cosmetic formulations, forming an emulsified cream with appealing sensorial properties that can act as a moisturizer with photoprotection, antioxidant, and regeneration properties.