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A Modified Frequency Distribution Function of Wave-Breaking-Induced Energy Dissipation.

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Summary
This summary is machine-generated.

This study enhances nearshore wave breaking simulations by introducing a new frequency dependence in the damping coefficient. This modification improves predictions of wave asymmetry and higher-order statistics, aligning model results more closely with measurements.

Keywords:
frequency dependencefrequency‐domain modelnonlinear wavessurface gravity waveswave breakingwave transformation

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Area of Science:

  • Coastal Engineering
  • Oceanography
  • Fluid Dynamics

Background:

  • Simulating nearshore wave breaking requires accurate models for wave propagation and statistical quantities.
  • Existing models often underpredict higher-order moments, especially wave asymmetry.
  • Frequency dependence of dissipation is crucial but requires refinement.

Purpose of the Study:

  • To improve the accuracy of nearshore wave breaking simulations, particularly for asymmetry predictions.
  • To introduce a modified frequency dependence for the breaking-induced damping coefficient.
  • To enhance the agreement between model predictions and observational data.

Main Methods:

  • Combined a nonlinear frequency-domain model with a probabilistic wave breaking model.
  • Introduced a new form of frequency dependence for the breaking-induced damping coefficient.
  • Validated the modified model against spectral, higher-order statistical, and free surface elevation measurements.

Main Results:

  • The modified model shows improved agreement with spectral and higher-order statistics.
  • Predictions of wave asymmetry are significantly more accurate with the adjusted model.
  • The model's enhanced performance is more pronounced when wave breaking strongly influences wave transformation.

Conclusions:

  • The proposed adjustment to frequency dependence in the damping coefficient effectively enhances nearshore wave breaking models.
  • Accurate prediction of wave asymmetry and higher-order statistics is achievable with the refined model.
  • This approach offers a more reliable tool for studying wave transformation processes in coastal environments.