Related Experiment Video

Updated: Jul 11, 2025

Measurements of Waves in a Wind-wave Tank Under Steady and Time-varying Wind Forcing
08:54

Measurements of Waves in a Wind-wave Tank Under Steady and Time-varying Wind Forcing

Published on: February 13, 2018

8.7K

An asymmetry in wave scaling drives outsized quantities of coastal wetland erosion

Rusty A Feagin1,2,3, Kuang-An Chang3,4, Thomas P Huff2,5

  • 1School of Geography and the Environment, University of Oxford, Oxford, UK.

Science Advances
|November 8, 2023
PubMed

More Related Videos

Measuring and Mapping Patterns of Soil Erosion and Deposition Related to Soil Carbonate Concentrations Under Agricultural Management08:09

Measuring and Mapping Patterns of Soil Erosion and Deposition Related to Soil Carbonate Concentrations Under Agricultural Management

Published on: September 12, 2017

11.8K
Visualization of Flow Field Around a Vibrating Pipeline Within an Equilibrium Scour Hole00:09

Visualization of Flow Field Around a Vibrating Pipeline Within an Equilibrium Scour Hole

Published on: August 26, 2019

5.6K

Related Concept Videos

Typical Model Studies01:30

Typical Model Studies

Fluid mechanics model studies often utilize scaled-down systems to predict fluid behavior in full-scale environments, such as river flows, dam spillways, and structures interacting with open surfaces. Maintaining Froude number similarity in river models is crucial, as it replicates surface flow features like wave patterns and velocities.
363
Wave Parameters01:10

Wave Parameters

The simplest mechanical waves are associated with simple harmonic motion and repeat themselves for several cycles. These simple harmonic waves can be modeled using a combination of sine and cosine functions. Consider a simplified surface water wave that moves across the water's surface. Unlike complex ocean waves, in surface water waves, water moves vertically, oscillating up and down, whereas the disturbance of the wave moves horizontally through the medium. If a seagull is floating on the...
7.8K
Modeling and Similitude01:12

Modeling and Similitude

Scaled modeling is a fundamental technique in engineering, enabling the study of large and complex systems by creating smaller, manageable replicas that recreate critical characteristics of the original. In hydrology and civil infrastructure, for example, scaled models of dams help analyze water flow, turbulence, and pressure. This method allows for accurate predictions of real-world behavior within a controlled environment, significantly reducing the cost and time involved in full-scale...
270
Kinetic and Potential Energy of a Wave01:10

Kinetic and Potential Energy of a Wave

All forms of waves carry energy; this is directly visualized in nature. For instance, the waves of earthquakes are so intense that they can shake huge concrete buildings, causing them to fall. Loud sounds can damage nerve cells in the inner ear, causing permanent hearing loss. The waves of the oceans can erode beaches. 
In mechanical waves, the amount of energy is related to their amplitude and frequency. In the context of the above examples, large-amplitude earthquakes produce large...
3.8K
Design Example: Creating a Hydraulic Model of a Dam Spillway01:21

Design Example: Creating a Hydraulic Model of a Dam Spillway

Scaled hydraulic models of dam spillways provide a practical way to replicate and study the intricate flow dynamics of these structures. Often built to a 1:15 ratio, these models allow for observing critical water behavior, such as velocity distribution, flow patterns, and energy dissipation.
190
Damped Oscillations01:07

Damped Oscillations

In the real world, oscillations seldom follow true simple harmonic motion. A system that continues its motion indefinitely without losing its amplitude is termed undamped. However, friction of some sort usually dampens the motion, so it fades away or needs more force to continue. For example, a guitar string stops oscillating a few seconds after being plucked. Similarly, one must continually push a swing to keep a child swinging on a playground.
Although friction and other non-conservative...
5.7K