A Modified Frequency Distribution Function of Wave-Breaking-Induced Energy Dissipation.

Area of Science:

• Coastal Engineering
• Oceanography
• Fluid Dynamics

Background:

• Simulating nearshore wave breaking requires accurate models for wave propagation and statistical quantities.
• Existing models often underpredict higher-order moments, especially wave asymmetry.
• Frequency dependence of dissipation is crucial but requires refinement.

Purpose of the Study:

• To improve the accuracy of nearshore wave breaking simulations, particularly for asymmetry predictions.
• To introduce a modified frequency dependence for the breaking-induced damping coefficient.
• To enhance the agreement between model predictions and observational data.

Main Methods:

• Combined a nonlinear frequency-domain model with a probabilistic wave breaking model.
• Introduced a new form of frequency dependence for the breaking-induced damping coefficient.
• Validated the modified model against spectral, higher-order statistical, and free surface elevation measurements.

Main Results:

• The modified model shows improved agreement with spectral and higher-order statistics.
• Predictions of wave asymmetry are significantly more accurate with the adjusted model.
• The model's enhanced performance is more pronounced when wave breaking strongly influences wave transformation.

Conclusions:

• The proposed adjustment to frequency dependence in the damping coefficient effectively enhances nearshore wave breaking models.
• Accurate prediction of wave asymmetry and higher-order statistics is achievable with the refined model.
• This approach offers a more reliable tool for studying wave transformation processes in coastal environments.