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Physical performance testing in climbing-A systematic review.

Kaja Langer1, Christian Simon1, Josef Wiemeyer1

  • 1Laboratory for Movement & Exercise Science, Institute of Sports Science, Department of Human Sciences, Technical University of Darmstadt, Darmstadt, Germany.

Frontiers in Sports and Active Living
|May 25, 2023
PubMed
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Climbing diagnostics lack standardized tests for performance, strength, endurance, and flexibility. This review highlights the need for uniform testing to improve scientific and practical applications in climbing.

Area of Science:

  • Sports Science
  • Exercise Physiology
  • Biomechanics

Background:

  • Climbing's rising popularity necessitates robust diagnostic methods for performance assessment.
  • Existing diagnostic tools for climbing performance, strength, endurance, and flexibility lack standardization.
  • A comprehensive overview of current climbing diagnostic methods is crucial for scientific and practical advancement.

Purpose of the Study:

  • To systematically review and evaluate the quality of diagnostic testing and measurement methods for climbing performance, strength, endurance, and flexibility.
  • To identify and categorize existing tests used in climbing and bouldering research.
  • To assess the reporting quality of these tests regarding subject characteristics and psychometric properties.

Main Methods:

Keywords:
boulderingenduranceflexibilitymeasuringperformancestrengthtesting

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  • Systematic literature search on PubMed and SPORTDiscus for quantitative studies on climbing diagnostics.
  • Inclusion criteria focused on representative samples, detailed test information, and specific study designs (RCT, cohort, etc.).
  • Extracted and synthesized data on test implementation, measured values, units, subject characteristics, and quality criteria (objectivity, reliability, validity).
  • Main Results:

    • 156 studies were included, identifying 63 different climbing diagnostic tests.
    • Significant heterogeneity exists in test implementation, indicating a lack of standardized procedures.
    • Few studies reported comprehensive data on test quality and subject characteristics, hindering result comparability.
    • No uniform or standard diagnostic procedures were identified for strength, endurance, or flexibility in climbing.

    Conclusions:

    • The current landscape of climbing diagnostics is characterized by a lack of standardization and inconsistent reporting of test quality and subject data.
    • This variability complicates the comparison of results and limits the ability to provide precise test recommendations.
    • The review provides a foundation for developing more uniform and reliable test batteries for climbing diagnostics in the future.