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New formulation technology to boost sun protection.

Hélène Meaudre1, Odile Aubrun1, Jean-Baptiste Boitte1

  • 1L'Oréal R&I, Chevilly-Larue, France.

International Journal of Cosmetic Science
|September 17, 2023
PubMed
Summary

A novel polymer, abbreviated AAHCP, enhances sunscreen efficacy and cosmetic feel. This innovation in emulsion technology provides superior photoprotection and desirable sensory attributes for sun care products.

Keywords:
UV filterschemical analysisformulation skin care/stability/texture/emulsionsphotoprotectionpolymers/surfactants

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Area of Science:

  • Cosmetic Science
  • Materials Science
  • Dermatology

Background:

  • Photoprotection is a global concern for all skin types.
  • Consumers demand sunscreen products that are both cosmetically elegant and highly effective.
  • Developing advanced sun care formulations is crucial for meeting these consumer preferences.

Purpose of the Study:

  • To develop a high-performance and desirable sun care product.
  • To investigate the properties and applications of a novel polymer, abbreviated AAHCP, in sunscreen formulations.
  • To create an innovative sunscreen formulation technology offering superior photoprotection.

Main Methods:

  • Utilized scanning electron cryomicroscopy (cryoSEM), small and wide-angle X-ray scattering, and confocal laser scanning microscopy to analyze AAHCP behavior.
  • Developed and tested innovative sunscreen formulations incorporating AAHCP.
  • Evaluated photoprotection efficacy using in vitro and in vivo methods, including Sun Protection Factor (SPF) measurements.

Main Results:

  • The AAHCP polymer demonstrated effective oil structuring and the formation of small, stable droplets in simplex emulsions.
  • In vitro and in vivo SPF measurements confirmed the sun protection boosting efficacy of AAHCP.
  • Formulations exhibited optimal performance with desirable cosmetic features, including non-sticky, non-greasy feel and invisible skin appearance.

Conclusions:

  • A new emulsion technology utilizing a specific polymer (AAHCP) has been developed.
  • This innovation successfully reconciles maximal SPF efficacy, resistance to various stresses, and optimal sensoriality in a single sun care product.
  • This represents a significant advancement in the field of sun protection.