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Updated: Jul 15, 2025

Resolving Water, Proteins, and Lipids from In Vivo Confocal Raman Spectra of Stratum Corneum through a Chemometric Approach
Published on: September 26, 2019
Topical dexpanthenol effects on physiological parameters of the stratum corneum by Confocal Raman Microspectroscopy
Vitoria Tonini Porto Ferreira1, Gustavo Carlos Silva2, Airton Abrahão Martin2
1Department of Phmarmaceutical Sciences, School of Pharmaceutical Sciences of Riberão Preto, University of São Paulo, São Paulo, Brazil.
Topical dexpanthenol application alters stratum corneum composition, increasing lipid and keratin organization. This suggests dexpanthenol aids skin barrier function by enhancing fluidity and preventing water loss.
Area of Science:
- Dermatology
- Biochemistry
- Optical Physics
Background:
- Dexpanthenol is known for moisturizing and skin barrier repair.
- Its precise mechanisms of action remain under investigation.
- Confocal Raman Microspectroscopy offers non-invasive in vivo analysis of skin molecular changes.
Purpose of the Study:
- To investigate the effects of topical dexpanthenol on stratum corneum (SC) components.
- To evaluate physiological parameters within the SC after dexpanthenol application.
- To elucidate the molecular mechanisms underlying dexpanthenol's skin benefits.
Main Methods:
- Ten healthy female subjects participated in the study.
- Confocal Raman Spectrometer Skin Analyzer 3510 was used for skin evaluation.
- Spectral data were collected from the forearm before and 2 hours after applying a 5% dexpanthenol formulation.
Main Results:
- A significant decrease in natural moisturizing factor content was observed post-application.
- Increased hexagonal organization of intercellular lipids in the upper SC was noted.
- Enhanced β-pleated sheet conformation of keratin indicated altered protein structure.
Conclusions:
- Topical dexpanthenol increases the fluidity of SC lipid and protein components.
- These findings support dexpanthenol's role in maintaining skin hydration and preventing transepidermal water loss.
- The study provides insights into dexpanthenol's biochemical action mechanisms.
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