Safety assessment for nail cosmetics: Framework for the estimation of systemic exposure through the nail plate

All cosmetics products, including nail care products, must be evaluated for their safety. The assessment of systemic exposure is a key component of the safety assessment. However, data on the exposure, especially via ungual route (nail plate) are limited. Based on the physicochemical properties of human nails and permeability data of topical onychomycosis drugs, the nail plate is considered a good barrier to chemicals. We examine factors impacting penetration of nail care ingredients through the nail plate, including properties of the nails of the ingredients and formulations. The molecular weight, vapor pressure, logP, water solubility, and keratin binding, as well as formulations properties e.g., polymerization of acrylate monomers are considered important factors affecting penetration. To estimate systemic exposure of nail care ingredients through the nail plate, a standardized framework is applied that quantifies the impacts of these properties on penetration with an adjustment factor for each of these influencing properties. All the adjustment factors are then consolidated to derive an integrated adjustment factor which can be used for calculation of the systemic exposure dose for the ingredient. Several case studies are presented to reflect how this framework can be used in the exposure assessment for nail cosmetic products.