Nanoemulsion with wine lees: a green approach

Bioactive substances can be found in wine lees, a waste from the winemaking industry. This work developed two formulations, a nanoemulsion with coconut oil (NE-OC) and a nanoemulsion with coconut oil and 0.5% of wine lees extract (NE-OC-Ext), to investigate their effect on untreated, bleached, and bleached-colored hair. The oil-in-water (O/W) nanoemulsions were prepared with coconut oil, TweenTM 80, SpanTM 80, AristoflexTM AVC, Conserve NovaMit MFTM, wine lees extract, and deionized water. The hydration measurements were carried out using a Corneometer® CM 825 with the capacitance method. Scanning electron microscopy (SEM) was used to characterize the effect of formulations on hair fibers. Differential Thermal Analysis (DTA) was to assess the thermal stability and compatibility of wine lees and coconut oil in formulations. Compared to NE-OC, NE-OC-Ext showed a greater hydration effect on bleached-colored hair. DTA showed that NE-OC-Ext presented a smaller number of exothermic degradation events than those of NE-OC, suggesting good interaction and compatibility of the wine lees extract in this formulation. This study highlights the value of wine lees, a residue from the winemaking process, and its possibility of use as raw material for the cosmetic hair industry since it shows a greater moisturizing potential in colored hair.