Understanding the causes of skincare product pilling

Skincare and makeup "pilling" is an unsightly and undesirable phenomenon whereby skincare such as moisturizers or foundation ball up to form flakes on the skin. To date, the causes of skincare product pilling have not been studied. This study aimed to examine the relationship between skin physiology and pilling potential of sunscreen and foundation (the two products most reported by consumers to cause pilling). This study also examined the effects of product application methods on pilling.

528 female volunteers from Guangzhou, China, aged between 20 and 49 years, underwent various clinical skin assessments, followed by three steps of product layering. Pilling was assessed after each product application step.

217 volunteers (41%) experienced pilling. The majority of pilling (n = 655 events) occurred following sunscreen application, while only a few pilling events (n = 35) occurred with foundation. Foundation improved pilling caused by sunscreen in 98.9% of cases. Volunteers experiencing pilling with both sunscreen and foundation had significantly lower facial skin hydration and oiliness, higher pH, and smoother skin texture (P < 0.05). Two application methods, rubbing of products in circular and linear motions, yielded the highest numbers of pilling events.

This study has provided the first insights into the causes of pilling. Sunscreen is a promoter of pilling, while foundation may resolve sunscreen-induced pilling in many cases. Skin physiology, particularly drier, smoother skin with higher pH, and product application methods are likely contributing factors to this undesirable phenomenon.