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Effects of Different Loading Programs on Finger Strength in Rock Climbers
Natalie K Gilmore1, Peter Klimek2, Emil Abrahamsson3
1Department of Neurobiology, Physiology and Behavior, University of California Davis, Davis, CA, 95616, USA.
Sports Medicine - Open
|November 19, 2024
Summary
Low-intensity hangboard training (Abrahangs) is as effective as maximal load training for improving climber grip strength. Combining both methods yields additive strength gains, offering a gentle yet effective training approach.
Area of Science:
- Sports Science
- Biomechanics
- Exercise Physiology
Background:
- Climbing imposes significant loads on finger and hand structures.
- Hangboard training is a common method for enhancing finger strength in climbers.
Purpose of the Study:
- To compare the effectiveness of a low-intensity hangboard protocol (Abrahangs) with a maximal load protocol (Max Hangs) for improving grip strength.
- To evaluate the combined effects of both protocols.
Main Methods:
- Retrospective analysis of grip strength and Strength:Weight changes in climbers using the Crimpd app.
- Participants were grouped based on training protocols: Abrahangs Only, Max Hangs Only, or Both.
- Inclusion criteria required two finger strength tests within a 4-16 week period.
Main Results:
- Low-intensity, frequent finger loading demonstrated comparable improvements in grip strength to maximal load training.
- Concurrent training with both low-intensity and maximal load protocols resulted in greater, additive strength gains.
Conclusions:
- Low-intensity, long-duration holds present a viable training strategy for finger strength.
- This approach is sufficiently gentle to be integrated into existing climber training regimens.
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