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New Plant Extracts Exert Complementary Anti-Hair Loss Properties in Human In Vitro and Ex Vivo Models
Daniel Bacqueville1, Marguerite Lévêque1, Camille Mas1
1R & D Department, Pierre Fabre Dermo-Cosmétique and Personal Care, Toulouse, France.
Background:
Hair loss is linked to dysfunction of the growth (anagen), regression (catagen) and rest (telogen) phases of the hair follicle (HF) cycle.
Aims:
To evaluate the effects of a Silybum marianum extract (SME), manganese PCA (MnPCA), and a Lespedeza capitata extract (LCE) on markers of hair growth and anchorage in human follicle dermal papilla cells (HFDPCs), and to investigate the ability of a topical serum containing these active ingredients to improve HF growth in an ex vivo human scalp skin model.
Methods:
In HFDPCs, we assessed receptor tyrosine kinase phosphorylation and Wnt/β-catenin pathway activation; quantified versican, vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF) and Dickkopf-1 (DDK1) secretion; and evaluated 5α-reductase (5αR) activity. Using scalp skin biopsies from two female donors, we measured hair shaft elongation, analyzed hair matrix keratinocyte proliferation and apoptosis, and determined HF cycle stage and score.
Results:
Compared to untreated HFDPCs, SME upregulated phosphorylation of growth factor receptors (EGFR:1.9 × and PDGFR: 2.8 ×) and their downstream effectors (ERK, GSK3, Akt, and STAT: 1.2-2.0 ×); MnPCA enhanced versican (33.0 ×) and VEGF (3.3 ×) secretion, and stimulated the Wnt/β-catenin pathway (+80%); and LCE reduced DKK1 secretion (-72%) and 5αR activity (dihydrotestosterone/testosterone ratio: -60%). Compared to untreated scalp skin biopsies, the serum enhanced hair shaft elongation (+102%), and significantly prolonged the anagen phase by improving hair cycle scores and stimulating hair matrix keratinocyte proliferation (+58%).
Conclusions:
SME, MnPCA, and LCE displayed complementary anti-hair loss properties. The serum combining these active ingredients may be useful in hair loss treatment.
