Innovative Emulsifiers in Cosmetic Products: A Patent Review (2013-2023)

The cosmetics industry, characterized by innovation and dynamism, is constantly undergoing research, often guided by market trends. Although it covers various sectors, emulsifiers have had a notable impact on its development. Numerous products depend on these components, and continuous research has led to the creation of ever-better products. This Review analyzes emulsifiers for cosmetic use patented between 2013 and 2023, using Espacenet as the main database. Fifty-one patents were examined, considering the annual growth in publications, their geographic distribution, types of emulsifiers, their chemical and physical properties, chemical structures, emulsification mechanisms, and systems formed. An increase in the publication of patents was observed, with some decreases in certain years, highlighting that 86% of the patents come from China. The classification of emulsifiers revealed a predominance of those of natural origin, followed by polymeric, synthetic, and defined molecule compounds. The emulsification mechanisms of each group and the systems they formed according to the patents were also reviewed. In addition, trends in the physical and chemical properties of the emulsifiers were identified. This characterization demonstrates the growth in emulsifier research, which allows for the improvement of emulsions on the market, offering greater stability and functionality to develop superior cosmetic products.