In Vitro and In Vivo Assessment of an Innovative Peeling System with Azelaic and Tranexamic Acids for Targeted...

Area of Science:

• Dermatology and Cosmetology
• Biochemistry of Pigmentation

Background:

• Melanin, derived from tyrosine, is key to skin pigmentation via melanogenesis.
• Disruptions in melanogenesis cause hyperpigmentation, impacting skin appearance and quality of life.
• Existing treatments for hyperpigmentation have limitations, necessitating novel solutions.

Purpose of the Study:

• To evaluate an innovative peeling system for hyperpigmentation treatment.
• To assess the efficacy of a novel formulation containing azelaic acid (AZA) and tranexamic acid (TXA).

Main Methods:

• In vitro studies assessed moisturizer inhibition of UVA-induced melanin in melanocytes.
• A 6-week, single-center study evaluated the peeling system in 33 females with moderate-to-severe hyperpigmentation.
• Efficacy was measured via clinical photography, 3D skin topography, clinical expert evaluation (CEE), and self-assessment questionnaires.

Main Results:

• In vitro: Novel moisturizer showed concentration-dependent inhibition of melanin accumulation.
• In vivo: Significant reduction in dark spot number, area, and perimeter by week 6.
• Improvements observed in skin homogeneity, contrast, brightness, tone, and roughness, corroborated by CEE and self-evaluation.

Conclusions:

• The innovative peeling system effectively reduces hyperpigmentation in females with healthy skin over a 6-week regimen.
• The synergistic action of AZA, TXA, and other active ingredients likely contributed to observed improvements.
• This multifaceted approach targets hyperpigmentation effectively, enhancing overall skin appearance.